Double-barred Finch photograph by ©Tom Sjolund.
Watching birds is the main purpose of birdwatching (although sometimes we get sidetracked) and to make it as much fun as possible we need to see birds clearly (good binoculars), know what we are looking at (field guide) and know where to look (local knowledge). The information on this page will give you some advice about chosing binoculars, chosing a field guide, lists of birds for local areas and how to be a responsible birdwatcher.
Getting started Binoculars Field Guide Responsible birdwatching Bird lists
Getting started ^
There are many reasons for taking up birdwatching but whatever the reason often the hardest part is just getting started. Birds Australia have produced some information sheets that might help. One discusses why birding and the other describes how to get started .
Binoculars ^
Careful selection of a good pair of binoculars will be rewarded with close up views of the beauty of birds. Like anything else you can buy cheap or you can buy expensive. However, it is generally true to say that the more you pay the more likely you are to get good quality optics that will provide you with long service and satisfy your developing skills over a period of time. If you buy cheap and then have to upgrade because you cannot see as well as you would like you would have been better off buying a good pair in the first place.
You also need to get the technical specifications right for the type of birdwatching you will be doing. Binoculars are usually described as 8 x 30 or 10 x 50 etc. The first number, 8 or 10, describes the magnification and the second number, 30 or 50, describes the diameter in millimetres of the objective lens (the big one at the front).
In general the lower the magnification the better the light gathering power. Low magnification also provides a wider field of view that makes it easier to locate birds. For example you might see a bird in a tree but find it difficult to locate with your binoculars due to a very small field of view. The more experience you have the easier it becomes. Another problem with high magnification is that with hand held binoculars small movements of the hands results in large movements of the field of view. This can be annoying when you are trying to pick out features of a bird you have not seen before.
For general birding a magnification of around 8x is probably the best. However, in low light conditions such as at dawn and dusk 7x would be better. Then again if you are watching birds in wetlands or in estuaries where they are a long way off then 10x would be more suitable. For the serious birder a pair of quality 8 x 30 binoculars with a tripod mounted spotting scope that has 20x, 40x or even 60x magnification provides a good combination. For the beginner investing in the best quality 8 x 30 or 8 x 50 binoculars that you can afford is a good way to start.
Have a look at the binoculars and spotting scopes at the Birding Shop website.
Field guide ^
A good field guide is essential for correct identification of the birds you see. There are some that provide an artists drawing of each bird with brief information about habitat, distribution, nesting and song etc. There are others that provide a photograph of each bird instead of an artists drawing. Slater, Pizzey & Knight and Moorhouse all use artists drawings while Flegg uses photographs. There are merits to both approaches. One thing to remember is that colour reproduction in a book may not be exactly as you see colours in the wild. Another thing is that drawings and photographs only show a bird from one point of view and that might not be the point of view you have through your binoculars. This means that even with a good field guide you will have to exercise some discrimination when you are making an identification.
Field guides can be purchased at most bookshops so go along and have a good look at those on offer before you make a decision. Alternatively you can have a look at some of the more popular field guides at the Birding Shop website.
Being a responsible birdwatcher ^
Birds Australia Capricornia encourages responsible behaviour when birdwatching. Leave nothing but footprints and take nothing but photographs and memories are two prime considerations for the birdwatcher. Bird habitat is precious so we need to look after it. Birds Australia has produced some 'Guidelines for Birdwatching', please read them and be aware of the issues it raises the next time you focus your binoculars.
Bird lists for local areas ^
Below is selection of bird lists for some the birds that have been seen by Birds Capricornia members in various local areas. Click on the area you are interested in for a PDF or Word file that will give you some background information on the area, how to get there and what you might see. These lists will be added to as more areas are surveyed.
Coastal areas
| Causeway Lake | Yeppoon Beaches | Coorooman Creek |
| Great Keppel Island | Shoalwater Bay | Corio Bay (Sept 05) |
| 1770 and Agnes Waters | Five Rocks (Sept 04) |
Inland areas
| Capella |
Wetlands
| Yeppen Yeppen Lagoon | Iwasaki Wetlands | Lake Mary Swamp (Oct 03) |
| Lake Mary Swamp (Mar 04) | Twelve Mile (May 04) | Greenlake (March 05) |
| Serpentine Lagoon | Lower Gracemere Lagoon | Dump Lagoon |
| Lion Lagoon (April 05) | Kinka Wetlands (1986-2005) |
Open woodland and river areas
| Mount Archer | Emu Crossing (Fitzroy River) | |
| Alton Downs Reserve (Apr 05) |
Rainforest
| Byfield | ||
National Parks
| Kroombit Tops | Carnarvon Gorge | Minerva Hills |
| Lake Murphy | Eungella (June 2005) | Eurimbula |
| Mount Etna | Isla Gorge | Mount Archer (August 05) |
| Bluff Point (Yeppoon) | Idalia | Salvator Rosa |
| One Tree Island (March 2005) | Cape Hillsborough (July 2005) |
Desert areas
| Simpson Desert | Channel Country | |
Properties in Central Queensland
| Gordon Downs (May 04) | Gordon Downs (Oct 04) | Padaminka (June 2005) |